Sometimes, luxury watches are coated with DLC.
DLC stands for: ‘Diamond-like carbon’. As the name implies, DLC possesses some of the valuable properties of diamonds. DLC can be applied to almost any material. If DLC in pure form is applied, it is just as hard as natural diamonds. A watch case that is equipped with DLC coating offers exceptional protection against wear and exposure to moisture.
Sometimes, luxury watches are coated with DLC.
PVD stands for ‘Physical Vapor Deposition’. It is a modern technology in which condensation of atoms or molecules from a gas or vapor form thin, but very hard layers of coating (1 to 3 micrometers) when they are applied to a metal carrier, for example the watch case or other metal parts. This process takes place under vacuum.
PVD is often used within watchmaking by giving stainless steel or titanium a colored coating, usually yellow (gold), but other colors also occur. PVD coating has the advantage of being very scratch-resistant, resistant to corrosion and makes it possible to choose in many different colors.
A helium release valve is a valve that is designed for watches that are suitable for deep-sea diving. The noble gas helium consists of one of the smallest molecules and is able to penetrate into the watch when diving at great depths (and thus high pressure).
Once in the watch, this gas can’t escape quickly enough, unless the watch is equipped with a helium release valve to let the helium escape from the watch during lowering the pressure. This is necessary to prevent the watch from exploding during decompression. There are helium release valves that you can open and close yourself, but there are also brands / models where the valve automatically opens and closes. Not every watch that is designed for scuba diving is equipped with a helium release valve. In that case, these watches are designed so that no helium can penetrate into the watch.
Golf and luxury watches, it is not an easy combination. The shocks that the clockwork gets to endure during a game of golf, sometimes as much as 20 to 40G in a few milliseconds, usually do no good. Only a few watch brands will recommend their buyers to wear a luxury watch during this noble sport. The Swiss watch brand Jaermann & Stübi has specialized completely. The brand makes shockproof watches that can withstand the forces on the field.
The flagship of the brand is the Stroke Play family, which includes collections such as St Andrews Links, Time the Play, Hole in One, Queen of Golf and the Stroke Play Skeleton. The functions of the watches in this range include hours, minutes, big seconds, strokes per hole, total score, played holes and handicap comparison. Of course, the watches have the ring with the patented ShockGuard system and its movement can be seen through the sapphire glass caseback.
The sixties were wild years. Especially for Rolex when the legendary founder Hans Wilsdorf died. The Deep Sea Special went to the seabed with a submarine and thanks to this the Rolex Sea-Dweller was introduced. But the most important news from that period came in 1963.
The introduction of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. The inspiration for the name Daytona (which appeared on the dial in 1964) is easier to guess: this chronograph had to become a race watch. Initially, the watch was named after another legendary race 'Le Mans' but that was quickly changed. By then, Rolex already sponsored the annual 24 hours of Daytona for two years. The watch was not a direct hit, but due to low production numbers, the demand only increased in the following years. The best-known model is undoubtedly the Paul Newman Daytona (never mentioned by Rolex, but simply named after his stylish wearer).
Another word for two-tone is ‘bicolor’ and bicolor means 2 colors. A bicolor watch is therefore composed of 2 colors, usually different material or the same material with different colors.
A common combination is stainless steel with yellow gold. This combination can occur in the case and/or the bracelet of the watch.
When a watch has a central seconds hand, the second hand is attached to the same central axis as the hour and minute hand.
All hands of a watch have a certain order of assembly. First the hour hand is mounted, on top the minute hand, and finally the central second hand is fixed. The biggest advantage of central seconds over subsidiary seconds is 'legibility'. Central seconds covers a much larger sweep than small seconds (and is thus often call “sweep seconds”), and it is able to share the minute track on the dial for precision timing over short periods.
If a watch is provided with a folding clasp, there is a closure by means of two hinged metal strips which are attached to the strap of the watch and which are bent in the shape of the wrist.
Because this closure is foldable, the watch can be put around the wrist like a bracelet and then, when closing, it folds one metal strip over the other metal strip. A folding clasp is often more expensive than a tang buckle, but with a folding clasp your watch strap will last longer. Moreover, the chance that your luxury watch falls of your wrist, when putting on or taking off, is smaller.
In todays world, were we all live in a race against time and were minutes matter, the alarm watch still proves itself to be very useful. An alarm watch is able to sound at a pre-set time which is handy for reminding people of certain things, cooking food and waking up. Originally a feature only found in clocks, Eterna’s watchmakers were able to downsize all parts and implement this feature into a watch for the first time in 1908 but only went in to production in 1914. Although not loud enough to wake a person, it was a handy feature to remind people of certain things. The first company who made an alarm watch loud enough to wake a person was Vulcain. Their so called “Cricket” watches came in to production in 1947. The alarm watches really caught on and quickly other brands started developing them. In 1958, Jaeger-LeCoultre released the “Memovox”. This model turned in to the classic we know now and it’s still a part of their collection. Other brands like Breguet have improved the alarm function by making it hearable under water to a depth up to 300m or like Glashütte Original who made the alarm programable up to 30 days in advance. Today, the alarm watch is a pretty rare bird. Because of modern technology and the high cost, these watches are a collectors thing now and rarely seen in the wild. We would surely love to these mechanical wonders more!
A Panorama Date (or large date) shows a large date, as the name says.
The display of a date - large or normal - is a representation of a date, you will probably say. But the big date, unlike the "normal" date, is a complex mechanism consisting of 2 round discs, with only the units 1 to 3 on the first disk and the units 0 to 9 on the 2nd disk. This complication requires perfect synchronization between the individual disks. In most cases, each of these 2 disks has its own window on the dial.